Watercolour Paper: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners
If you’re new to watercolour, one of the first things you’ll need to decide is what paper to use.
In this guide, I’ll go over the main types—hot-pressed, cold-pressed, and rough—the difference between cotton and cellulose, and the formats you’ll come across in art shops, like pads, blocks, and loose sheets, so you can make a confident choice.
This post is not sponsored and does not contain any affiliate links. All opinions are my own.
HOT-PRESSED PAPER
Hot-pressed paper has a smooth, almost velvety surface with minimal texture, achieved by pressing the paper between heated rollers during production. It’s a favourite among botanical artists and those who love fine details. It’s also a great option if you like mixing watercolour with other media, like ink or coloured pencils. However, if you’re a beginner, you may find it more challenging to control the paint on this surface.
COLD-PRESSED PAPER
Cold-pressed paper, sometimes called NOT (short for “not Hot-pressed”), has a slightly textured surface created by pressing the sheets through cold metal rollers. It’s the most versatile and beginner-friendly—it works well with a variety of painting styles and makes it easier to blend colours and create soft edges. Cold-pressed paper is also more forgiving if you make a mistake, which is particularly helpful when you're still building confidence with your brushwork.
ROUGH PAPER
Rough watercolour paper is the boldest of the three, with a pronounced grain made by pressing the paper between sheets of textured felt as it dries, resulting in a rugged surface. This type of paper is best suited for expressive, loose painting styles, and many artists love it for landscapes. The heavy texture enhances the granulating effects of certain watercolour paints and is excellent for wet-on-wet techniques.
Practical Tips:
Purchase a single sheet or sample packs to explore different textures and brands.
Try painting the same subject on hot-pressed, cold-pressed, and rough paper to see how each surface behaves.
COTTON VS CELLULOSE: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
One of the key decisions is whether to go for 100% cotton paper or a cellulose-based alternative.
Cotton watercolour paper is my personal favourite. It absorbs water evenly, handles multiple layers well, is more durable when using techniques like lifting or masking, and is ideal for archival-quality work. While cotton paper is more expensive, and quality can vary between brands, it is worth the investment.
Cellulose paper, on the other hand, is a more affordable option made from wood pulp. This paper doesn’t handle water as well as cotton, tends to dry faster, making blending more difficult, and you're more likely to get hard edges or uneven results. That said, it’s a great choice for practice, quick studies, or experimenting with new techniques without worrying about wasting expensive paper.
LOOSE SHEETS, PADS AND BLOCKS
Watercolour paper comes in different formats, and choosing the right one depends on your painting style and needs.
LOOSE SHEETS: provide maximum flexibility, you can work on both large-scale and smaller pieces by cutting the paper to your desired size. Some art stores will also cut the sheets for you free of charge. Common sizes include:
-Full Imperial: 22 x 30 inches (56 x 76 cm)
-Half Imperial: 15 x 22 inches (38 x 56 cm)
-Quarter Imperial: 11 x 15 inches (28 x 38 cm)
PADS: are a practical choice for those who appreciate the convenience of pre-cut paper. They contain multiple sheets bound at the top or side and come in various sizes. Some pads have pages glued along one edge, while others are spiral-bound, making it easy to flip through pages and keep the pad flat while working.
BLOCKS: are stacks of watercolour paper glued on all four edges, which helps prevent warping. This format is particularly useful if you tend to work with a lot of water. Once your painting is dry, you can remove the top sheet by inserting a palette knife or similar tool into the small unglued section designed for this purpose. It’s worth noting that slight warping can still occur, especially near the unglued area.
WHAT IS SIZING?
Watercolour paper is treated with sizing—a process that enhances how the paper handles water and pigment. Without it, the paper would soak up water too quickly, behaving more like a sponge and making it difficult to control washes. Sizing reduces the paper’s absorbency, allowing wet paint to sit on the surface longer, which helps with blending and layering. It also strengthens the paper, making it more resistant to lifting, scrubbing, and when using masking fluid. Traditionally, sizing is made from gelatin, but for those who prefer non-animal options, papers sized with plant-based starches or synthetic alternatives are also available.
When purchasing watercolour paper, you may come across terms like internal and external sizing:
-INTERNAL SIZING is added during the manufacturing process by mixing the sizing agent into the pulp.
-EXTERNAL SIZING also known as surface or tub sizing, is applied after the sheet is formed and dried.
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
High end:
100% Cotton fibre
Internal and external sizing (gelatin)
100% Cotton fibre
Internal and external sizing (gelatin)
Mid Range:
100% Cotton fibre
Internal and external sizing (non-animal derived)
Note: more affordable but also more fragile than Arches or Saunders
Budget-Friendly:
100% Wood pulp
Internal sizing (non-animal derived)
Tip: Store your paper in a cool, dry place: exposure to high humidity or extreme temperatures can damage the sizing, affecting the paper’s performance.
“Every artist was first an amateur”
There isn’t one specific type or brand of paper that works for everyone. The way you paint, the subjects you choose, and the techniques you use can all influence what feels right. One of the most useful things I’ve done is paint the same subject on different papers—it really highlighted how much the surface can affect the final result. Cold-pressed is usually a great place to begin—it’s versatile, forgiving, and works well for many painting styles. As you build your confidence and start exploring new subjects, you might want to try the smooth precision of hot-pressed paper or the beautiful, rich textures of rough paper.
In the end, it’s a personal choice, and taking the time to try a few papers will tell you more than any label ever could!
